City Break Ragusa: A 3-Day Guide to Baroque Gold and Two Cities (2025)

Ragusa is a city that demands you choose a side but eventually seduces you with both. Perched in the Hyblaean Mountains of south-eastern Sicily it is a place divided not by politics but by geography and a catastrophic earthquake. In 1693 a massive tremor flattened the region. The nobility decided to rebuild on the old site which became Ragusa Ibla while the working class built a new modern city on the ridge above which became Ragusa Superiore. Today these two halves stare at each other across a deep ravine connected by winding stairs and three graceful bridges.

The result is one of the most dramatic urban landscapes in Italy. Ragusa Ibla looks like a sandcastle dripping down the hillside. It is a maze of grey stone, blue doors and gargoyles that leer from beneath baroque balconies. Above it Ragusa Superiore offers grid-like order and grand majestic cathedrals. The stone used here catches the sunlight in a specific way turning the whole city a honey-gold colour in the late afternoon. It is the filming location for much of the Inspector Montalbano series and walking the streets feels like stepping into a film set where the drama is provided by the landscape itself.

Ragusa glowing in golden stone, timeless, calm, unforgettable

If you are seeking a city break Europe offers that combines architectural drama with some of the best food on the island then a trip Ragusa is the perfect choice. This expert-crafted 3 days in Ragusa itinerary is designed to help you navigate the stairs and the history. It balances the intense beauty of the UNESCO-listed churches with the relaxed pleasure of Sicilian dining. It is the definitive Ragusa travel guide for planning your journey detailing exactly what to do in Ragusa during your unforgettable city break.

Day 1: The Descent into Ibla

Day one is dedicated to the jewel of the city. We will navigate the hundreds of steps that link the two towns and explore the baroque heart of the old city.

Morning: The Stairs of Santa Maria

Start your day in Ragusa Superiore at the edge of the ravine. The view from the Santa Maria delle Scale church is the most famous image of the city. You look down onto the tiled roofs of Ibla huddled on the hill below. It is breathtaking.

Begin the descent. It is a winding path of 242 steps (give or take a few) that zigzags down the cliffside. Take your time. Halfway down you will pass charming houses and small chapels. It is a walk through history moving from the 18th-century grid to the medieval layout below.

Once you reach the bottom you are in Ragusa Ibla. The streets here are narrow and car-free. Walk towards the Piazza Duomo. This palm-lined square is the living room of the town.

Lunch: Arancini and Scaccia

For lunch do as the locals do and eat on the go or sit on a bench in the square. Head to Cantunera Ibla or a local tavola calda.

You must try Arancini. In this part of Sicily they are often conical (shaped like Mount Etna) and filled with ragu and peas. Also try Scaccia Ragusana. This is a local speciality somewhere between a lasagne and a calzone. It is thin dough folded over many times with tomato and cheese or ricotta and onion. It is filling, cheap and delicious.

Afternoon: The Cathedral of San Giorgio

Dominating the square is the Duomo di San Giorgio. It sits at the top of a grand staircase behind a wrought-iron gate. The facade is a masterpiece of the Sicilian Baroque style designed by Rosario Gagliardi. The slightly curved front gives it a sense of movement.

Inside the church is elegant and airy. Look for the stained glass windows depicting the martyrdom of St George. After visiting the church wander down the Corso XXV Aprile. This is the main street lined with gelato shops, aristocratic clubs and boutiques.

Walk all the way to the end of the town to reach the Giardino Ibleo (Hyblean Gardens). This public park offers shade, palm trees and stunning views over the valley below. There are three medieval churches located within the garden walls which survived the earthquake.

Evening: Dining in a Cave

Ragusa is famous for its caves and grottos. Many restaurants are carved directly into the rock. For dinner try Trattoria la Bettola or Il Barocco.

Order the Cavati alla Norma. This is pasta with tomato sauce, fried aubergine and copious amounts of salted ricotta cheese. It is the signature dish of eastern Sicily. Pair it with a Cerasuolo di Vittoria which is the local red wine. It is a blend of Nero d'Avola and Frappato and it is light enough to drink even on a warm evening.

Practical Details: Day 1

Activity	Time	Cost (EUR)	Cost (GBP) *	Address/Details
Santa Maria Stairs	09:30 AM – 10:30 AM	Free	Free	Corso Mazzini
Lunch – Arancini	12:30 PM – 01:30 PM	€8.00 avg	£6.80 avg	Cantunera Ibla
Duomo di San Giorgio	02:00 PM – 02:45 PM	Free	Free	Piazza Duomo
Giardino Ibleo	03:30 PM – 05:00 PM	Free	Free	End of Corso XXV Aprile
Dinner – Trattoria	08:00 PM	€35.00 avg	£29.75 avg	Ibla centre
Total Estimated Transport Cost:	Walkable	0	0	Be prepared for stairs

• GBP prices are approximate conversions based on a rate of €1.00 = £0.85 for planning purposes.

Day 2: The Leopard and The New Town

Day two takes us to a nearby castle that captures the romance of the Sicilian aristocracy before returning to explore the upper town of Ragusa.

Morning: Castello di Donnafugata

Take a taxi or a local bus (check schedules carefully) to Castello di Donnafugata. It is about 20 minutes from the city. This is not a medieval fortress but a 19th-century aristocratic residence. It is famous for being a filming location for The Leopard and Inspector Montalbano.

You can tour the opulent rooms. The Hall of Mirrors and the Music Room are particularly impressive with their trompe-l'œil paintings. The real highlight is the park. It covers eight hectares and features exotic plants, a stone labyrinth and artificial caves. It is a place of whimsy and wealth.

Lunch: Rustic Ricotta

On your way back stop at a countryside agriturismo or have lunch near the castle. The food in the countryside is rustic.

This region is the home of Ragusano DOP cheese. It is a rectangular block of cow's milk cheese that is aged hanging from a beam. Try it grilled (Ragusano all'argentiera) with garlic and vinegar. It sounds intense but the vinegar cuts through the richness of the cheese perfectly.

Afternoon: Ragusa Superiore

Return to Ragusa Superiore. This part of town is often overlooked by tourists but it has its own grandeur. The streets are laid out in a grid which makes navigation easier.

Visit the Cathedral of San Giovanni Battista. This is the main cathedral of the upper town. Its facade is asymmetrical and imposing. Inside it is vast and cool.

Walk along Via Roma which is the main shopping street. It is lined with shops and cafes. Walk out onto the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) or the Ponte Nuovo (New Bridge). These bridges span the valley and offer incredible views back towards the green hills. It gives you a sense of how the city is floating on the rock.

Evening: Aperitivo with a View

For your evening activity head to a bar with a terrace overlooking the valley. Scale del Gusto area often has spots with great views.

Participate in the Italian ritual of Aperitivo. Order a Spritz or a Negroni and enjoy the complimentary snacks. In Sicily these snacks are often generous enough to be a light dinner. If you are still hungry finding a pizza in Superiore is easy and often cheaper than in Ibla.

Practical Details: Day 2

Activity	Time	Cost (EUR)	Cost (GBP) *	Address/Details
Castello di Donnafugata	10:00 AM – 12:30 PM	€6.00	£5.10	Contrada Donnafugata
Taxi to Castle	Round Trip	€40.00	£34.00	Split by group
Lunch – Countryside	01:00 PM – 02:00 PM	€25.00 avg	£21.25 avg	Near Castle
San Giovanni Cathedral	03:30 PM – 04:00 PM	Free	Free	Piazza San Giovanni
Aperitivo	07:00 PM	€12.00 avg	£10.20 avg	Via Roma area
Dinner – Pizza	08:30 PM	€20.00 avg	£17.00 avg	Ragusa Superiore
Total Estimated Transport Cost:	€20.00	£17.00	Taxi share (approx)

• GBP prices are approximate conversions based on a rate of €1.00 = £0.85 for planning purposes.

Day 3: Hidden Baroque and Chocolate Dreams

Your final day delves into the details. We will find the grotesque gargoyles that hide under balconies and perhaps take a quick detour to the city of chocolate next door.

Morning: The Grotesque Balconies

Return to Ragusa Ibla. Spend your morning looking up. The Palazzo Cosentini and Palazzo La Rocca are famous for their baroque balconies. The stone corbels that support them are carved into grotesque faces, musicians and mythical creatures. They are ugly, funny and fascinating.

Wander into the small artisan shops. Ragusa has a tradition of cart making and embroidery. You can find unique souvenirs here that are not mass-produced.

Lunch: A Trip to Modica (Optional) or Local Feast

You have a choice here. Modica is another UNESCO baroque town just 15km away. You can take a bus there for lunch. Modica is famous for its Aztec-style chocolate which is grainy and cold-processed.

If you prefer to stay in Ragusa treat yourself to a long lunch at I Banchi. This is a bakery and restaurant run by the famous chef Ciccio Sultano. It is more casual than his Michelin-starred restaurant but the food is incredible. The bread basket alone is worth the trip.

Afternoon: The Circle of Conversation

Visit the Circolo di Conversazione in Ibla. This beautiful neoclassical building was the club where the nobility would gather to talk and ignore the commoners outside. You can admire the facade and the elegant room inside through the windows or if open take a peek.

Walk up to the Church of Santa Maria dell'Itria. It has a distinctive blue dome that stands out among the grey stone. It is located in the old Jewish quarter of the city.

Farewell: Michelin Stars or Street Food

Ragusa is a foodie capital. It has several Michelin-starred restaurants. If your budget allows book a table at Duomo (2 stars) or Locanda Don Serafino (1 star). It is an unforgettable experience of Sicilian gastronomy.

If you prefer something more grounded grab a Cuoppo (paper cone) of fried seafood and sit on the steps of the Duomo one last time. Watch the swallows dive around the church tower as the lights come on turning the stone to gold.

Practical Details: Day 3

Activity	Time	Cost (EUR)	Cost (GBP) *	Address/Details
Palazzo Cosentini	10:00 AM – 11:00 AM	Free (Exterior)	Free	Piazza della Repubblica
Bus to Modica (Optional)	11:30 AM – 12:00 PM	€3.00	£2.55	From bus station
Lunch – I Banchi	01:00 PM – 02:30 PM	€40.00 avg	£34.00 avg	Via Orfanatrofio 39
Santa Maria dell'Itria	03:30 PM – 04:00 PM	Free	Free	Salita Commendatore
Farewell Dinner	08:00 PM	€150.00+	£127.00+	Fine dining option
OR Casual Dinner	08:00 PM	€25.00	£21.25	Street food
Total Estimated Transport Cost:	€3.00	£2.55	Bus if visiting Modica

• GBP prices are approximate conversions based on a rate of €1.00 = £0.85 for planning purposes.

Where to Stay: Accommodation Suggestion

For a stay that combines aristocratic history with modern luxury right in the centre of the city this hotel is a masterpiece.

Relais Antica Badia - San Maurizio 1619 (Book here)

• Location: This hotel is located at Corso Italia 115 in the heart of Ragusa Superiore. It is situated right next to the San Giovanni Cathedral. This location is strategic because it is easily accessible by car (unlike much of Ibla) but is just a short walk from the stairs that lead down to the old town. You get the best of both worlds: the convenience of the new town and the views of the old.

• Style & Amenities: The hotel is housed in an 18th-century noble villa. The restoration has been meticulous preserving the large halls, period furniture and stone floors. It feels like staying in a museum where you are allowed to touch the exhibits. The rooms are spacious and elegant often featuring high ceilings and rich fabrics. A major highlight is the spa which is carved into the rock and offers a sauna, Turkish bath and massage treatments. It is the perfect way to recover after climbing hundreds of stairs.

• Rates: Offering a luxurious and historic experience double rooms typically start around €160–€250 (£136–£212) per night depending on the season. The breakfast is served in a magnificent salon and features fresh Sicilian pastries and local cheeses.

Final Section: Tips and Local Insights

Your sunny trip Italy is planned. Here are essential logistics and local insights to ensure your visit is seamless.

Mastering Transport

• The Stairs: You cannot avoid stairs in Ragusa. It is a vertical city. Wear comfortable shoes with good grip. The stones can be slippery when wet or dusty.

• Buses: There are small local buses that run between Ragusa Superiore and Ragusa Ibla. They are useful if you want to go down on foot and come back up by bus. Tickets are cheap (around €1.50).

• Car Rental: You really need a car to get to Ragusa and to explore the surrounding area (Modica, Scicli, beaches). However driving inside Ibla is strictly prohibited for non-residents (ZTL zones). Park in one of the public car parks at the edge of town and walk.

• Airports: The nearest airport is Comiso (20 mins) but it is small. Catania (1.5 hours) is the main international hub.

Currency and Etiquette

• Currency: Italy uses the Euro (€).

• Siesta: In Sicily the afternoon break is sacred especially in summer. Shops and churches will close around 1:00 PM and not reopen until 4:00 PM or 5:00 PM. Plan your day accordingly. Use this time for a long lunch or a nap.

• Dining Times: Dinner is late. Restaurants often do not open until 7:30 PM or 8:00 PM and locals won't arrive until 9:00 PM.

• Water: Tap water is safe but many locals prefer bottled water. In summer staying hydrated is essential as the stone city captures the heat.

• Language: While Italian is the national language you will hear Sicilian spoken on the streets. It is a distinct language with different words and sounds.

Ragusa is a city of drama. It is a place of deep shadows and blinding light. It is elegant yet earthy, grand yet welcoming. It captures the very essence of the Sicilian soul. Buon viaggio! (Have a safe trip!)