Lunch at Septime: The Best Meal of My Paris City Break

There is a specific kind of energy in the 11th arrondissement of Paris. It doesn't have the polished limestone of the Champs-Élysées but it has something better: flavor. On my latest city break in Paris I headed straight for Rue de Charonne to visit Septime.

This place has held a Michelin star for years and often lands on the "World's 50 Best" list. People always talk about the 21-day booking window and setting alarms for 10 AM but I must have the magic touch. I hopped online and grabbed a lunch table for a few weeks later. No drama and just dinner plans.

Lunch at Septime, Paris. Simple, seasonal, perfect.

The Vibe: No White Tablecloths Required

Walking in you realize why this spot started a revolution. It is effortless. The walls are rough concrete, the tables are reclaimed wood and an iron spiral staircase anchors the room. It feels less like a "temple of gastronomy" and more like the living room of your coolest friend.

I sat near the window which was bathed in that grey Parisian winter light and watched the team work in the open kitchen. It was calm, focused and quiet. I ordered a glass of natural wine which was a funky orange skin-contact vintage the sommelier recommended. Then I waited for the carte blanche menu to start.

The Menu: What I Actually Ate

Septime doesn't give you a menu until the end. You just trust them. Here is exactly what landed on my table.

The Warm Up: Celeriac Tempura

The meal opened with a small bowl of hot vegetable broth that was deep and earthy. This was followed by a piece of celeriac tempura. It wasn't greasy at all. The batter was shattered-glass crispy and dusted a soft piece of sweet celery root inside. It came with a yellow mustard labneh that had just enough heat to wake up my palate.

The Starter: Raw Scallop and Squash

Next came the raw course. Slices of raw scallop were hidden under thin ribbons of butternut squash and fermented blueberries. The scallops were incredibly sweet but the fermented berries added this sharp acidity that cut right through. It was a weird combination on paper that worked perfectly on the fork.

The Fish: Banka Trout with Beurre Blanc

I love that Septime isn't afraid of "humble" ingredients. They served a Banka trout that was cooked so gently it was almost like sashimi in the center. It was swimming in a pool of classic beurre blanc sauce but they split the sauce with dill oil. This gave it a green and grassy finish. It was rich and buttery so I definitely used the sourdough bread to wipe the plate clean.

The Main: Veal Sweetbreads on the BBQ

This was the heavy hitter. A large piece of veal sweetbread or ris de veau was glazed and charred over the barbecue. It had that sticky exterior but was creamy inside. It was served with roasted salsify and a reduced meat jus that was so intense it was almost sticky. This is the kind of cooking that makes you understand why Michelin stars exist.

The Dessert: Mushroom and Chocolate

French chefs love a savory dessert and this one was bold. It was a dark chocolate ganache paired with porcini mushroom cream. Yes, mushrooms. It was topped with a blood orange granita. The cold tart ice hit you first followed by the bitterness of the chocolate and finally this earthy note from the mushroom. It wasn't "sweet" but it was fascinating.

The Price: What Does It Cost?

Let's talk money because that is usually the scary part of a Michelin star review. Honestly Septime is incredibly fair for what you get.

• Lunch (5 courses): €85

• Dinner (7 courses): €135

• Wine Pairing: €60 for lunch and €75 for dinner

Considering you are getting world-class ingredients and service in the middle of Paris this feels like a steal compared to the €300+ bills you see elsewhere in the city.

The Verdict

Septime isn't for people who want waiters in tuxedos to pour their water every two minutes. It is for people who want to be surprised. The service was friendly and totally unpretentious, the natural wine list was adventurous and the bill felt like a steal for the quality of cooking.

If you are planning your own city break in Paris this needs to be on your itinerary. It was the best few hours I spent in the city. For more tips on where to eat, drink and sleep check out the full City Guide Paris. Bon appétit!